- Les Experts, OPUS 1
- L'Atelier Parfum
Les Experts : OPUS 1 by Stephan
I had already vaguely smelled the seven creations from L’Atelier Parfum a little before the brand was founded in 2021, but the opening of their boutique on Rue de la République in Lyon’s 2nd arrondissement just these past few days made me truly want to delve into the brand and its four Opus collections, each one a different universe, yet all, it must be said, sharing a very clear guiding thread. I experienced a comprehensive discovery, which truly allowed me to get a feel for the spirit of this house—a spirit that stands out quite singularly from the other brands that make up what is now called niche perfumery, for many reasons. Of course, I’ll need to revisit again. It’s clear that the brand works with Robertet and thus has access to some truly beautiful natural raw materials, as well as expertly crafted synthetic molecules, and the perfumers who composed these creations are far from lacking in talent: Lice Le Berre, Dorothée Piot, Sidonie Lancesseur, Karine Vinchon Spehner, Alexis Dadier, Michel Almairac, and Serge de Oliveira. I selected my four favorites and will try to make you want to test them as well—perhaps even let yourself be convinced. Thus, I’ll talk to you about Opus 1, Jardin Secret, which is a promenade full of freshness and elegance. It comprises seven creations, of which I chose four that greatly appealed to me. So I’ll take you along on this fragrant journey and thank Jonathan, who managed the opening of the boutique, as well as Andrea, whom we know well here in Lyon for her kindness and expertise, for this very intricate discovery, which will be the basis of four “immersive” articles on the worlds of L’Atelier Parfum.
“Unpredictable and carefree. Life is short, let’s skip to dessert! A cocktail of citrusy freshness told through the zesty and bitter essences of citrus fruits,”—these are the words the brand uses to describe “Verte Euphorie,” and it’s true, I really like it. Created by Alexis Dadier—whose work I must say I’m enjoying more and more—it’s a green fragrance without galbanum. It opens on notes of juicy blood orange, bitter grapefruit, and petitgrain. As soon as I spray it, there’s an explosion of freshness. The heart of gentian and carrot seed is surprising, between bitterness and softness, while the musky base with woody notes of white cedar is just present enough to support the fragrance and give it impressive lasting power. This is a perfume for oneself—the projection is discreet, but I’m not at all disappointed because, on my skin, it’s exactly the way I like it. There’s something both elegant, refreshing, and comforting. For me, “Verte Euphorie” reinvents the genre—it’s surprising and forms a bridge between citrus fragrances and cut green grass notes. Truly, I like it very much.
“Douce Insomnie” is really the most surprising fragrance in the collection for me because I’m absolutely not a fan of coffee notes in perfumery, and it’s described as follows: “Cappuccino was the starting point for this creation. You’ll find all its aspects: milk froth, cocoa powder, and arabica coffee. Combined with narcotic heliotrope and essences of wood and iris, the coffee gains richness, depth, and sophistication.” On paper, it had everything to put me off—yet I loved it. I find that it develops in a very chic way on my skin. It opens with pink pepper and orange blossom, then moves to a heart of coffee, jasmine, and heliotrope, which gives it something truly original. I really like the very novel side of these notes which, when combined, become both coherent and unique. The base of wood, iris, vanilla, sandalwood, and patchouli is rich, deep, surprising, and also highly original. It’s probably my favorite, by a narrow margin, thanks to its complexity and the beauty of how it develops.
“Chypre reimagined for today—this timeless classic vibrates in our era. A hint of ginger energizes the traditional accord, while raspberry and tonka bean break the rules, bringing roundness and youth. Less animalic, the trail fuses with the skin thanks to modern musks.” Naturally, I was interested in “Belle Joueuse” since chypre is my favorite olfactory family. The opening is truly modern with notes of peach, raspberry (thankfully not too dominant), and ginger, a heart of rose, jasmine, and patchouli, and a powdery tonka bean base rounded by amber and supported by vetiver. I immediately felt how round it was. For me, Michel Almairac, who composed this fragrance, aimed for a revisited, modern, stable chypre. I admit the construction is interesting, but while I enjoy smelling it, I find it difficult to wear myself—it’s almost a bit too fruity for me. It will, I think, delight fans of originality, modernity, and those who love this olfactory family.
I’m sometimes a little reluctant towards rose-forward fragrances, but with "Rose Coup de Foudre," Sidonie Lancesseur managed to ensure this perfume made my selection. I love its uniqueness and freshness. “The rose, timeless and classic, is reinvented with extreme freshness. It’s almost frosted in this fragrance, each petal plunged into a powerful and elegant woody accord.” The opening of blackcurrant, bergamot, and green notes is truly enticing. There’s a tonic and refreshing quality confirmed by a heart composed of natural rose—probably Bulgarian—and a frosted rose accord made aquatic by a touch of magnolia. The amber and musky base envelops a beautifully used patchouli that adds a profound facet. I am truly won over by this slightly fresh, chypre-ish rose. I really love the end of the fragrance, when the base notes have taken their place. It’s a truly beautiful perfume.
Overall, I really liked this first collection. I wanted to pick only four, but I think I found interest in all seven creations. I hope this house achieves the success it deserves. I’d also like to point out that the brand offers various sizes at very reasonable prices, considering the quality of the compositions—and it is, frankly, a real pleasure to discover (and, for me, rediscover) scented worlds where the bottle price remains accessible. That’s definitely a plus. L’Atelier Parfum really is a high-quality brand—you may or may not like it, but that’s the hallmark of an auteur perfumery, and I find that entirely normal. In any case, overall, I’m rather charmed as everything seems well thought-out, well-executed, pleasant to wear, all while maintaining—in this collection, at least—a very notable identity. For me, Opus 1 is a lovely success to discover, especially in spring and summer.
Thank you, Stephan, for this wonderful feature!
You can find the article here.
“Unpredictable and carefree. Life is short, let’s skip to dessert! A cocktail of citrusy freshness told through the zesty and bitter essences of citrus fruits,”—these are the words the brand uses to describe “Verte Euphorie,” and it’s true, I really like it. Created by Alexis Dadier—whose work I must say I’m enjoying more and more—it’s a green fragrance without galbanum. It opens on notes of juicy blood orange, bitter grapefruit, and petitgrain. As soon as I spray it, there’s an explosion of freshness. The heart of gentian and carrot seed is surprising, between bitterness and softness, while the musky base with woody notes of white cedar is just present enough to support the fragrance and give it impressive lasting power. This is a perfume for oneself—the projection is discreet, but I’m not at all disappointed because, on my skin, it’s exactly the way I like it. There’s something both elegant, refreshing, and comforting. For me, “Verte Euphorie” reinvents the genre—it’s surprising and forms a bridge between citrus fragrances and cut green grass notes. Truly, I like it very much.
“Douce Insomnie” is really the most surprising fragrance in the collection for me because I’m absolutely not a fan of coffee notes in perfumery, and it’s described as follows: “Cappuccino was the starting point for this creation. You’ll find all its aspects: milk froth, cocoa powder, and arabica coffee. Combined with narcotic heliotrope and essences of wood and iris, the coffee gains richness, depth, and sophistication.” On paper, it had everything to put me off—yet I loved it. I find that it develops in a very chic way on my skin. It opens with pink pepper and orange blossom, then moves to a heart of coffee, jasmine, and heliotrope, which gives it something truly original. I really like the very novel side of these notes which, when combined, become both coherent and unique. The base of wood, iris, vanilla, sandalwood, and patchouli is rich, deep, surprising, and also highly original. It’s probably my favorite, by a narrow margin, thanks to its complexity and the beauty of how it develops.
“Chypre reimagined for today—this timeless classic vibrates in our era. A hint of ginger energizes the traditional accord, while raspberry and tonka bean break the rules, bringing roundness and youth. Less animalic, the trail fuses with the skin thanks to modern musks.” Naturally, I was interested in “Belle Joueuse” since chypre is my favorite olfactory family. The opening is truly modern with notes of peach, raspberry (thankfully not too dominant), and ginger, a heart of rose, jasmine, and patchouli, and a powdery tonka bean base rounded by amber and supported by vetiver. I immediately felt how round it was. For me, Michel Almairac, who composed this fragrance, aimed for a revisited, modern, stable chypre. I admit the construction is interesting, but while I enjoy smelling it, I find it difficult to wear myself—it’s almost a bit too fruity for me. It will, I think, delight fans of originality, modernity, and those who love this olfactory family.
I’m sometimes a little reluctant towards rose-forward fragrances, but with "Rose Coup de Foudre," Sidonie Lancesseur managed to ensure this perfume made my selection. I love its uniqueness and freshness. “The rose, timeless and classic, is reinvented with extreme freshness. It’s almost frosted in this fragrance, each petal plunged into a powerful and elegant woody accord.” The opening of blackcurrant, bergamot, and green notes is truly enticing. There’s a tonic and refreshing quality confirmed by a heart composed of natural rose—probably Bulgarian—and a frosted rose accord made aquatic by a touch of magnolia. The amber and musky base envelops a beautifully used patchouli that adds a profound facet. I am truly won over by this slightly fresh, chypre-ish rose. I really love the end of the fragrance, when the base notes have taken their place. It’s a truly beautiful perfume.
Overall, I really liked this first collection. I wanted to pick only four, but I think I found interest in all seven creations. I hope this house achieves the success it deserves. I’d also like to point out that the brand offers various sizes at very reasonable prices, considering the quality of the compositions—and it is, frankly, a real pleasure to discover (and, for me, rediscover) scented worlds where the bottle price remains accessible. That’s definitely a plus. L’Atelier Parfum really is a high-quality brand—you may or may not like it, but that’s the hallmark of an auteur perfumery, and I find that entirely normal. In any case, overall, I’m rather charmed as everything seems well thought-out, well-executed, pleasant to wear, all while maintaining—in this collection, at least—a very notable identity. For me, Opus 1 is a lovely success to discover, especially in spring and summer.
Thank you, Stephan, for this wonderful feature!
You can find the article here.
